|
Aquarium
Water Changes... the right way
|
|
Water
changes....we all do them, or should be doing them. Yet, are
they being done for the benefit of the animals, or for the
convenience of the hobbyist? Water changes involve more than
just removing water from the tank, as we shall see.
Water changes are an essential part of maintaining the quality
of the captive environment. Without them, particulate would
accumulate in the substrate, pollutants such as nitrate and
phosphate would increase to toxic levels, and the pH and alkalinity
of the system would drop. Essential minor and trace elements
would be depleted as well. Water changes remove these and
other pollutants while at the same time replenishing diminished
elements.
What's the best way to do a water change?
Using a gravel cleaning siphon. These easy to use devices
not only remove water from the system, but at the same time
will remove particulate from the gravel bed. These particulate
will, over time, decay and degrade water quality. Gravel cleaning
will also keep the gravel "open", allowing for a
free exchange of food and oxygen between the water and the
bacteria living on the gravel. Simply removing water from
the system, while removing dissolved pollutants, does nothing
to remove particulate in the gravel and is not as effective
a method as using a gravel cleaner.
|
|
How
much water can be changed at one time? Virtually all of it,
should an emergency arise. Under normal conditions, you should
not have to remove more than 10% to 25% of the tanks' volume.
And don't worry about doing water changes while the system
is cycling...it will not affect the cycle at all, after the
initial 2-3 weeks.
How often should water changes be done? That depends on water
quality parameters and bioload. A chronically overstocked
tank will require larger water changes more frequently than
will an understocked tank. Normally, 10% once a week or 25%
once a month is adequate. If you notice that water quality
is not improving, you can increase the amount, frequency,
or both. However, try not to exceed a 50% water change if
it can be helped. As an example we recommend a 5 gallon change
on a 55g tank preferably weekly.
Water that is being added back to the system should be at
the same temperature as the water in the tank, ± 2ºF,
and free of chlorine, chloramine, heavy metals, and other
pollutants. Using a "slimy" water conditioner or
a chloramine remover will usually help ensure that incoming
water is satisfactory. In some agricultural or industrial
areas, incoming water should also be checked for nitrate and
phosphate. If significant quantities of either are found,
further treatment may be required to remove these pollutants,
or the hobbyist should consider using reverse osmosis (RO)
or deionized (DI) water.
Also at this time you should add all your supplements such
as salt, pH stabilizers, buffers, etc. to this water.
|
Water
Changing Tips:
Use a gravel cleaning siphon whenever you do a water change.
This way, you will remove trapped particulate from the gravel
at the same time you are removing dissolved pollutants.
While the use of auto-filling siphons is convenient, adding
raw untreated tapetater into your tank can lead to disaster.
Always precondition water before adding it to your system.
Never use hot water to adjust temperature. Heavy metals
such as copper and lead can be found in greater quantity
in hot water. In addition, some older water heaters may
leach toxic amounts of zinc into the water. Heavy metals
can be removed from tapetater by the addition of "slimy"
water conditioners. These products contain chemicals that
will bind these metals, rendering them harmless. Carbon
and certain resins will also remove heavy metals from water.
More frequent, smaller water changes are usually more desirable
than one large water change. Doing this will keep the water
quality from changing to drastically.
Don't worry about water changing during cycling. Normal
water changes will not affect this process, after 2-3 weeks.
For reef systems, or in areas where tap water is not up
to par, the use of reverse osmosis (RO) or RO deionized
water is recommended.
Thoroughly check well water before using it. Many wells
are now contaminated with agricultural and industrial pollutants.
Always allow your tap water to run at least five minutes
before using it. This will aid in decreasing the dissolved
heavy metal content.
|
|
|